Your Puppy’s Development Stages
All dogs and puppies should be trained from 8 weeks of age. A puppy at 8 weeks of age has the same brain waves as a fully matured dog.
This age of 8 weeks is one of the “impact stages” there are 3 all together and anything your puppy experiences, good, bad or other will remain in your puppy’s brain for the rest of its’ life, this stage will last from 6 to 14 weeks of age, so socialising your puppy with humans is of the utmost importance, but make sure that it is a pleasant socialisation, no small children running the puppy ragged, or hand and mouth tug of war games. Tug of war will pull the pups mouth out of alignment and could cause problems later on when the teeth do not sit properly in the gums and cold stick through the roof of the mouth.
The second stage at 16 weeks until around 8-9 months is one of running riot in other words, make me if you want me too, or I will just run away and you can chase me. This is the time which is the most hard work with a pup, and any command given MUST be followed through, and the pup be rewarded for doing the right thing.
The third stage starts at about 6 months and in some cases overlaps with the second stage and this 3rd stage is “fear and flight”. Everyday things, which your pup had acceptance of, May suddenly become a threat, and the pup will show fear and run. Firm but gently persuasion is a must, if your pup has been getting the car well and now suddenly runs from the car, place the pup on lead and lift it into the car with lots of praise. It is at this 3rd stage where most dogs may become fear bitters so firm but gentle handling is most certainly required. They can also become totally indifferent to the children in the house or other family members, and some even become aggressive towards these family members, get that person or the child (if the child is under 11 years of age monitor at all times) to feed the pup but not try to pat it. This stage can last from 2-3 weeks or sometimes longer, but it does pass. Be aware that if handled wrongly, the pup could become a fear bitter for the rest of its’ life. Under NO circumstances avoid what the pup is frightened of this will only make things worse.
It is also at this stage where the pup is starting to mature (sexual wise) and is trying to push the boundaries to see how far it can get away with things also. If you are NOT going to show or you are not a registered breeder it is always a good idea to have your dog de-sexed. Contact your Vet for information and cost.
Puppies are similar to small children and go through different stages of development, with the right education and training you will get through this period of development and have a wonderful companion.
WELCOME HOME
You should prepare before bringing your new puppy home.
- Warm, clean safe place to sleep
- A supply of puppy’s current food
Remember, going to a new home will be stressful for your puppy. Limit the number of friends and relatives visiting your house in the first few days. Keep the house as peaceful and quiet as possible. Allow the puppy time to quietly become used to his new surroundings.
Your puppy may be restless for the first few nights. This is normal. Be patient.
Don’t chastise your puppy. Gently try to soothe and quieten the puppy – he’s missing his mother and litter mates.
Some tips:
- A radio near the puppy’s sleeping area
- Allow the puppy to sleep in your bedroom in his bed
- Sleep near the puppy in his area
This initial restless behaviour will soon settle down.
Your puppy may be “off his food” for a couple of days. This is a natural reaction to the stress of leaving home. Persevere with his existing diet. Resist trying to tempt your puppy with a variety of different foods. They are likely to upset his stomach, and you are setting a bad feeding pattern for the future.
If in doubt over the first couple of days, ring your Breeder for help.
HOUSE TRAINING
Puppies can’t control their bladder usage when young. When they have to go – well, they HAVE to. Accidents will occur. You can assist your puppy in several ways.
Choose an area where you would like your puppy to use as a “toilet”
Take the puppy there:
- First thing in the morning
- When he wakes up from sleeping
- After you go out and return home
NEVER punish your puppy for accidents. Instead, lavishly praise him for going outside to the toilet. If you puppy makes a mistake, immediately pick him up and carry him outside.
VACCINATIONS AND WORMING
Infectious diseases such as those caused by parvovirus and canine disptemper
virus have been a significant cause of illness and death in dogs – especially
puppies.
Vaccinations will involve an initial course of injections, followed by yearly booster
shots to help maintain immunity.
Your breeder will provide you with a vaccination record card, which will indicate those vaccinations already given, and the next due date.
Worming is an important aspect of caring for your puppy.
Intestinal worms must be treated - and in Queensland Heartworm must also be medicated for. Some heartworm treatments also control intestinal worms. Worms you will need to address are: Heartworm, Roundworm, Hookworm, Whipworm & Tapeworm.
If in doubt, ask your Veterinarian for assistance.
Puppies should be wormed at 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks, 8 weeks, 12 weeks,
then each month until 6 months, thereafter every 3 months.
NUTRITION
Owning a dog is a huge responsibility. Giving your dog the best care and attention
can help improve the quality and length of his life. Feeding your dog a well
balanced diet is necessary to keep him healthy.
Puppies have different nutritional requirements from Adult dogs – that’s why
specific puppy foods are formulated.
Please feed your Springer a fully balanced Super Premium puppy food whilst he is growing (until about 12 – 14 months of age). You can’t undo the damage later on if you don’t feed your puppy correctly!
Puppies should be fed as follows:
· 4 times per day until 8 weeks
· 3 times per day thereafter until 4 months
· 2 times per day thereafter
Ensure a continuous supply of fresh water!
Your Breeder will supply you with a diet sheet. Please maintain the current diet.
Moving to a new home is stressful – changing diets is even more stressful. Your puppy may develop digestion problems. If you must change diets, ensure that the new diet is nutritionally complete, wait a few weeks before attempting a change, and then do so gradually (over 1 week)
GROOMING
Regular grooming is essential in order to keep your English Springer looking and
feeling at his best.
Grooming time also enables you to check the condition of your dog’s coat and skin,
and look for evidence of parasites (fleas, ticks etc).
A good brush once per week should keep your Springer in good condition.
Bathing is recommended once every two weeks, or on a more regular basis if necessary.
When grooming your dog, you should also check that his ears are clean and free from any excessive discharge. Wipe the ear with a cotton wool ball – don’t ever poke inside the ear as it’s very delicate. Only wipe the area that you can see!
English Springers sometimes suffer from ear complaints – the important thing is to keep the area around the inside of the ear free from excessive hair to allow air to flow freely. Use thinning or normal scissors for this purpose. An ear “flush” like Leo’s Ear Cleaner is useful. If in doubt, you should ask your Veterinarian for advice.
It is important to keep a watch on your dog’s nails. Dogs who are regularly exercised on hard surfaces are less likely to need attention, as their nails wear down to the correct length. If your dog is exercised mostly on grass, his nails may grow longer and require trimming. You can trim the nails yourself, but it is most important that this is done with suitable clippers. Notice the difference between the
pink (quick) and clear section of the nails? Trim back to just after the quick (which can bleed if cut). You may like to visit your Veterinarian and ask the Vet Nurse to demonstrate nail clipping on your puppy. Professional Dog Groomers also provide this service.
ORAL HEALTH CARE
Check your dog’s teeth. They should be clean and free from deposits. Gums should be a healthy pink colour. Deposits may develop around the base of the teeth near the gums as the dog ages. This can cause bad breath, mouth pain, and gum disease. Your vet can scale the teeth to remove tartar, but this usually requires an anaesthetic.
Brushing your dog’s teeth daily will help prevent this. You can also use specifically designed dental chews (e.g. Greenies, Dentastix, Dentabone) which help reduce the amount of plaque and tartar. Some Breeders also recommend chicken wings (raw only) or fresh bones (large, non-splintering only).
FLEAS
If you dog has fleas, he may be constantly scratching and biting himself, especially
along the back and around the base of the tail. Some dogs are allergic to the flea
saliva and one single bite is enough to provoke a severe reaction! You may see
the brownish-black fleas themselves, or you may notice the dark specks of “flea
dirt” (faeces) in his coat.
There are very effective products available (e.g. Frontline, Advantage, Advantix) that can
eliminate fleas from both your dog and your household. Ask your Veterinarian for
advice.
If you do find that your dog has fleas, treat his environment – fleas spend more
time off your dog than on it! Remove all bedding and blankets and wash them well.
Treat his bed or basket. Treat house carpets, vacuum cushions, skirting boars and
other furniture. Use a “flea bomb”. Treat your cat also!
TICKS
Ticks are very common in Queensland, even in suburban backyards.
Whilst most ticks are not life threatening, the paralysis tick can kill your dog! It is important to ascertain if you live in a paralysis tick area and if so, use an appropriate method of prevention.
Paralysis ticks needs to be attached to your dog for over 48 hours before paralysis sets in. Early symptoms may include coughing and listlessness. This soon progresses to paralysis of the hindquarters and spreads throughout the body. If untreated, your dog will most likely die.
Whilst preventative treatment for paralysis ticks may seem expensive, the costs of hospitalisation and treatment (not to mention the threat to your dog’s life) is far
more costly to you.
Paralysis ticks are most commonly seen from August to December, but may also be present at other times of the year, depending on the area in which you live.
Ask your Veterinarian for advice!
See more info on our Health And Welfare page
NEUTERING (DESEXING)
Unless you want to breed from your English Springer, you may consider having the puppy neutered.
It is NOT TRUE that female dogs require a litter to mature them, or that male dogs will suffer from being desexed.
Bitches normally come on heat every six months or so. She will need to be isolated from other dogs at this time, as she is very attractive to male dogs. Remember that it is necessary to prevent other dogs from gaining access to your property, as well as making sure that your bitch can’t escape.
An unwanted pregnancy can cause inconvenience to you and your neighbours, long hours of work looking after puppies, and the trouble of ensuring good homes for those puppies.
You Vet can advise the best age to have your puppy neutered – usually from 6 months of age.
Should you wish to show or breed from your puppy – your obviously will not neuter them. In this case, your bitch will need to be properly catered for during her seasons. Consider a boarding kennel if you don’t have appropriate facilities at home.
MICROCHIPPING
Permanent identification is available in Australia by way of a tiny microchip that your Vet can implant under your puppy’s skin. This works in a similar way to a bar code. Your pet can be traced back to you through a central registry.
Most Veterinary clinics, pounds, animals shelters etc have access to a scanner to identify your pet should it be lost or stolen.
A microchip may ensure that your pet arrives home safely and quickly.
All breeder members of the English Springer Spaniel Association of QLD Inc will microchip your puppy prior to you taking delivery of it!
EXERCISE
Resist the temptation to exercise your puppy too much while he is young. Like a small child, your puppy needs gentle exercise and lots of rest. For the first few months, backyard playtime or short walks are all that is needed.
English Springer Spaniels are very adaptable dogs. They are just as happy playing in a suburban backyard as hunting on a farm.
However, a daily form of exercise is recommended. Springers love going for a walk, and are generally very sociable dogs.
Springers can be prone to obesity. If your dog is too fat – either increase the amount of exercise, or cut down the amount of food. A fat dog is not a spoiled dog
– it is a neglected dog!
Many local Government authorities (e.g. Brisbane City Council) offer off-lease dog exercise areas. These are fully fenced, secure enclosures where your dog can happily play and run. Enquire from your local Government authority as to the nearest facility to you.
REMEMBER.. Springer puppies are generally far more active than adult dogs.
Puppies also become easily bored! Engage in some fun play activities with your
puppy (e.g. ball games).
PUPPY PRE-SCHOOL
It is a good idea to take your puppy to a “Puppy Pre-school” class. These classes teach your puppy basic socialisation and obedience skills, plus are an excellent education for the puppy owner in different aspects of dog care.
Most major Veterinary clinics run Puppy Pre-school classes.
There are also excellent private schools in most areas (e.g. Positive Response Dog Training, Clear Dog Training, Bonnie’s Dog Obedience, Wagtails, Barkbusters etc).
OBEDIENCE AND DOG SPORTS
For the Adult Springer, there are many organised activities that you may wish to
join:
There are Dog Obedience Clubs in most areas. Enquire from Dogs Queensland:
